My favourite catalog came today. Dominion & Grimm: sugar maple dreams and reality.
On the cover, in deep snow, a gorgeous team pulling through the drifts; the archtypal sugaring shed in the background:cosy, productive, newly painted. smoothly drifted.
Inside, stainless steel, magic pumps, reverse osmosis, wood furnaces & evaporators,
Carles and I have two days to finish the Chardonnay and grade the driveway. Just enough time over coffee for me to think about what’s missing from the image: the time spent to groom the pair; to harness them up, feed them, clean the stable at 6 below. All the things the farmer knows welll yet which lack the force require to corrode the older dream.
Chardonnay is the well-behaved grape. No great sprawling masses of shoots and new buds appearing anywhere on trunks and cordons. In fact, quite the opposite. This is the thirteenth pruning and some of the spurs are mounting alarmingly high; if wind or mishap break the green shoot in spring, that spur may have no backup and the architectural harmony demand rejigging. But in the main, the work goes quickly; the snow is gone, there’s little rain and by Thursday the sun is out and its warm: well above 10 degrees.
EC shows up with her neice Annette and fills me in on her family; new babies, new tribulations, new jobs. Her uncle is being remembered in the longhouse and she needs cash for firewood and food and donations. I have firewood–and 3,600 Pinot Noir to prune–so we can come to an agreement. Pruning equals firewood; plus a donation for the memorial. Start on Monday. Next week promises to be good weather. Someone will come tomorrow to assess the trees.
I work through to dusk cultivating the driveway on both sides, expanding it so it will be easier for cars to pass when the summer gets busy.The drive is almost a kilometre and over the years the crushed stone has invaded both verges. I cultivate both sides of the roadway and leave the centre–changing all the curves depending on where the trees sit and the vineyard posts.
Friday I get a late start because I need parts for the grader and a filter for the small tractor. As I cross the big bridge on the Cowichan there’s a goup of young people surrounding an image from the past, a person covered from head to foot in strands of woven bark; his face invisible.
When I arrive at the farm, a white car is coming out the driveway near the road. I stop and move over to apologize for the state if the road. It is the promised yarder, Joe. We chat; I’ve promised EC fir, but Joe will take maple or alder. This simplifies things so we start picking out trees. I explain my method of letting the big leaf maples spread out with many trunks so that each year I can take one or two trunks out of seven or eight and let all the underground portion stay healthy to feed the new trunks that inevitably arise to take over the space and use the nourishment from the deep, wide, root structure.
All is well with Joe, who’s not actually going to do the yarding, probably. We select about five alders, a dozen maples and two or three younger firs that are too crowded for the longer term. He balks only at the bent cedar I offer; not because of the distortion–it has the shape of a hocket stick. “I have too much respect for cedar.” he says and there’s a small shift on the conversation, to make sure I understand the importance of what is being said. I recognize him now; he’s not Joe the yarder, he’s JT the councillor; a member of the Duncan Council not normally decked out in such yarder fashion. We chat about how much wood the longhouses need and which ones have moved to woodstoves and which still keep to open fires. He may be back on Monday to help the real yarders cut; he may not. I apologize again for the state of the road and he chuckles. He has seen worse.
For the rest of the day I drive back and forth over the long driveway, turning up stones, bringing the crushed stone out of the verges and shaping the “roof” so we’ll have good drainage when the rains return.
The blue tractor has the cultivator; we put the grader on the small Massey and it runs well, with a single bad moment when it shows its age. Back and forth I go; back and forth; east and west; zenning out as I burn my allocated 14 litres of diesel. If I had a team, it would take me a week. If my customers had teams, the road could be rougher–but I would have fewer customers. I think about JT and the cedar tree and compare my good luck in having a town councillor who respects even a bentwood cedar with my bad luck in a prime minister who wants to spend billions on warplanes and prisons and tax the poor to pay for it. EC and JT and I would do a better job.
Life is compromise. The Massey runs better with the fuel filter replaced. It’s the equivalent of 17 teams although one good team would do this job. But at the end of the day I’m done. I have time to get the paint and mark the trees that JT and I have dedicated for the ceremonies, or at least for the warmth and comfort of those sharing the ceremonies. The road is done for the day; I turn off the key and admit that I’m happy I don’t have to take off 34 horse collars and hang thirty-four bits and stable thirty-four horses, however handsome and intelligent they might be. However responsive. However eager for their carrots and apples.






